Long Exposure Photography – Complete Beginner’s Guide

Long exposure photography uses slow shutter speeds to capture movement over time. Instead of freezing motion, it can blur moving elements and create dreamy, artistic effects.

You can download a 2 page PDF quick guide here.

Why Use Long Exposure?

• To show time passing in a single frame
• To simplify chaotic scenes by blurring motion
• To create a calm, dramatic, or ethereal mood
• To remove crowds or moving objects
• To produce creative, artistic effects beyond what the eye sees
• To use time as a compositional factor

Pros and Cons

Advantages

• Dramatic visual impact
• Highlights motion and contrast
• Simplifies scenes, emphasising static elements
• Great for storytelling and mood

Disadvantages

• Requires a tripod and careful setup
• Slow shooting process
• Sensitive to wind and vibrations
• Not ideal for spontaneous moments
• Can introduce noise (digital) or reciprocity issues (film)

10 second shutter creates light trails from a passing bus on Tower Bridge

When to Use / Not to Use

Best When:

• Motion in the scene (water, clouds, traffic)
• Time to carefully set up
• Stable tripod available
• Lighting can be controlled with filters

Avoid When:

• Subject must remain sharp (sports, wildlife)
• Camera cannot be stabilised
• Wind is strong
• Rapidly changing light
• You want instant results

Essential Equipment

• Tripod: Solid and vibration-free
• ND Filters: Reduce light for longer exposures
• Remote Shutter or Timer: Prevents camera shake
• Optional: Polariser, lens hood, viewfinder cover (film/long exposures)

Camera Settings – Starting Point (Digital)

• Mode: Manual (M)
• ISO: Lowest native (64-100)
• Aperture: f/8-f/11
• Image stabilisation: OFF
• Focus: Autofocus first, then manual after filter attachment

Shooting on Film – Extra Considerations

1. Reciprocity Failure:
   • Film becomes less sensitive over long exposures (>1-2 sec)
   • Requires extra exposure; check manufacturer tables
   • Bracket exposures when unsure
2. ISO: Use native ISO; do not push ISO for long exposures
3. Focus: Manual focus; set before attaching filters
4. Viewfinder: Block stray light to avoid fogging
5. Filters: ND filters work the same, but total shutter speed must include reciprocity compensation
6. Temperature: Cold can slightly reduces film sensitivity

As an example, Ilford HP5+ at a metered time of 10 seconds needs an exposure of 20.4 seconds to account for reciprocity failure.

In very low light together with a stopper filter you can find yourself in a place where fading light and extended shutter speeds where Reciprocity failure means the time needed to achieve a properly exposed image can become prohibitively long for practical purposes, making the exposure seem to “never end.” 

30 second shutter smoothes out water on the river Thames but leaves some texture

Subject-Specific Advice

Seascapes

• Smooth waves, emphasize rocks
• Shutter: 1-3s (texture) → 30+s (ethereal)
• Tips: Anchor foreground, avoid splash on tripod

Waterfalls & Rivers

• Silky ribbons of water
• Shutter: 0.5-1s (texture) → 10+s (mist)
• Tips: Wind can blur leaves; shorter exposures often look natural

Clouds & Sky

• Streak clouds for dynamic skies
• Shutter: 10-30s (subtle) → 1-3min (strong streaks)
• Tips: Use wide-angle to exaggerate motion; anchor foreground

Lakes & Reflections

• Smooth ripples for mirror-like water
• Shutter: 5-15s (smooth) → 30+s (glass-like)
• Tips: Calm conditions work best; watch debris

Urban & Architecture

• Remove people, capture traffic light trails
• Shutter: 10-30s (partial removal) → 1-3min (mostly empty)
• Tips: Blue hour light, level tripod, check reflections

Crowds & People (Creative)

• Blurs motion while isolating still subjects
• Shutter: 1-5s (partial blur) → 10+s (strong abstraction)

Night Long Exposures

• Traffic trails, cityscapes, star trails, light painting
• Tips: Watch for noise or hot pixels, shoot RAW, use long exposure noise reduction if needed

1 second shutter shows movement of the water whilst retaining texture

Workflow for Long Exposure (Digital or Film)

1. Set up tripod and compose shot
2. Focus and lock focus
3. Choose aperture and ISO (film: note reciprocity table)
4. Set base exposure without filters
5. Calculate new shutter speed using ND filter (film: include reciprocity compensation)
6. Attach ND filter carefully
7. Trigger exposure using timer or remote
8. Review and adjust exposure if necessary

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Leaving stabilisation ON
• Using Auto ISO (digital)
• Moving lens while fitting filters
• Ignoring wind or tripod stability
• Overly small apertures (diffraction)
• Expecting perfection on first exposure
• Forgetting reciprocity failure (film)

Creative Tips

• Less can be more – don’t over-smooth everything
• Shoot multiple shutter speeds
• Contrast moving and static elements
• Use long exposure to enhance composition, not replace it

Quick Notes – Digital vs Film

3 minute shutter renders the water in Venice completely smooth and featureless

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Set ISO to the lowest native value (usually ISO 64, 100, or 200).
   This gives the cleanest image with the least noise. Turn Auto ISO off so the camera doesn’t change exposure mid-shot.
2. Turn image stabilisation OFF (lens or camera).
   Stabilisation can cause blur when the camera is locked on a tripod.
3. Block the viewfinder (film or very long exposures).
   Light entering through the viewfinder can affect exposure during long shots.
4. Set the camera to Manual (M) mode.
   This gives full control over aperture and shutter speed.
5. Decide if a polarising filter is useful.
   A polariser can reduce glare and reflections and slightly lengthen exposure times.
6. Use a sturdy tripod and keep the centre column down.
   Lower setups are more stable and reduce vibration.
7. Compose your shot and focus carefully.
   Autofocus works best before fitting strong ND filters. Switch to manual focus afterward to lock it.
8. Choose your aperture (f/9-f/11 is a good starting point).
   This range provides good sharpness and depth of field.
9. Set a correct base exposure and note the shutter speed.
   This is your “no-filter” exposure and is needed for ND calculations.
10. Calculate the new shutter speed using your ND filter.
    Use a phone app or chart to convert the base shutter speed.
11. Set the calculated shutter speed on the camera.
    Double-check the value before proceeding.
12. Use a remote shutter release or a 2-second self-timer.
    This prevents vibration when pressing the shutter button.
13. Carefully attach the ND filter.
    Avoid bumping the lens or changing focus while fitting it.
14. Take the exposure and review the result.
    Check brightness and motion blur. Adjust shutter speed and repeat if needed.

Exposure Calculator Chart

Click table for a larger view.

You can download a 2 page PDF quick guide here.

Final Thoughts

Long exposure photography is as much about patience and intent as it is about technique. It encourages slowing down, observing movement, and making deliberate creative choices. With practice, it becomes less about the technical steps and more about using time as a compositional tool.